DAMASCUS, SYRIA – Much has been said of Syria in the headlines lately that I have delayed putting up this post, holding my breath for an awesome Egypt-like turning point to happen here. (Sure, President Bashar al-Assad is replacing his cabinet, but protests continue.) Shortly after January 25th, there was talk that the country would face its own people-powered democratic revolt, with a Facebook page calling for exactly that: Syria’s “Day of Rage.” But that “Day of Rage,” however, failed to materialize – though the government was prompted to legalize the use of Facebook, which I discovered, many of its young citizens had already been using via proxy servers.
When Husband and I visited Syria on the second week of March, the world’s eyes were not yet directed at the seeds of unrest taking place within, but at the devastating earthquake/tsunami/nuclear crisis in Japan and the escalating unrest and civil war in Libya. Which, speaking of large scale uprisings, a revolt like that would never happen in Syria, I was told by those in Damascus and Aleppo. While everyone acknowledged the need for greater political freedoms and social reform, they pointed to reasons why a revolution wouldn’t work here: from the relatively large – and comfortable – middle class population in the country to the respect and admiration Syrians have for their president. (Keep in mind Readers, this was just our experience in town. The locals we spoke to were nearly all involved in one aspect or another of the tourism industry – which like in Egypt is temporarily suffering – and their interest may be in having a “stable” country and not one shaken by a revolution. Others are fearful of arrest, have been intimidated by the police state, and are on the whole not comfortable speaking openly about politics, especially to a foreigner. We often take such things for granted in America…)
Our fellow travelers in Syria were generally older – average age around 65 – white and European. They came for the artifacts and the history. And what better place than Syria, home to several ancient kingdoms and empires? Damascus and Aleppo are the world’s two oldest continually inhabited cities.
Old City, Damascus
I, on the other hand, wasn’t here primarily for the old stuff. I was attracted instead to Syria’s bad rep. Due to Damascus’s close ties with Iran and the Lebanese Shiite resistance group Hezbollah, Syria had suffered immensely in the PR department. It was generally NOT a country American couples go to on their honeymoon. Of course this made Husband and I even more interested in going!
We walked the Old City’s blind alleys. Visited art galleries, mosques and churches. Devoured the most scrumptious dishes in the world (and learned a few recipes too!). And we had our own “Damascene Moment.” The religious tolerance in Syria impressed us, the urbane air and European influence surprised us, and the wealth and vibrancy of the design and architecture floored us. There is so much taste here. It was hard to conceive of Syria as a “rogue state” when the strangers we met were so thoughtful and friendly. Syria completely threw our expectations out the door.
 Damascus souk |
 Umayyad Mosque |
 Outside Umayyad Mosque |
 At Khan As'ad Pasha |
 St. Ananias' Chapel |
 Inside St. Ananias' Chapel |
 A wall in Damascus |
 The Waterwheels of Hama |
 At Crac Des Chevaliers |
 A view from the Basilica of St. Simeon |
 The Dead City of Sergilla |
 A night in Aleppo |
 Visiting the Al-Jebeili Soap Factory |
 Soap cutting |
 Cooking lesson in Aleppo |
 Here's what Husband and I made! |
 Our home in Aleppo, Beit Salehieh |
 Self-portrait at Beit Salahieh |
